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BTGBullseye

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Posts posted by BTGBullseye

  1. Poking a dictator of a nuclear nation with a stick and stripping net neutrality are steps in the right direction? He may have talked a good game during the election, but it's different when you're living under his administration. The man doesn't even really do anything, himself; he basically just plays golf and beats his chest while the GOP stooges he appointed run the country further into the ground.

     

    What a grand old time it is that our 'democracy' can't even give regular Americans a choice between a business criminal and a political criminal, but have an electoral college make that decision for us.

    1. Trump can't control what the FCC does, and Obama put Pai in there.

    2. NK isn't a real threat to anyone except South Korea.

    3. The limited selection of candidates is because the American public has been taught to pick people based on what they say at the time, not what their history shows them to be. Research on the background of the candidates is ridiculed because "it's such a nerdy thing to do", and incomplete backgrounds portrayed by mass media are all the more that the public wants. This results in a lack of information about the candidates, and an attempt to misinform people into voting a particular way. (like all the major media saying that Clinton would win by a landslide until the final hours of the election proved otherwise)

  2. Please read this... https://torrentfreak.com/police-seize-hundreds-of-computers-over-pirate-movie-download-in-2013-171125/

     

    The gist of it is, copyright trolls are actively and 'legally' seizing computers of random people based on unconfirmed IP addresses obtained 4 years ago. This is apparently a rather common practice nowadays within the Polish legal system. They rarely find any illegal content on the seized systems, and the people who are losing their systems will likely never see them, or the contents of the system, again.

     

    “Polish prosecutors often decide to seize computers just because they got an IP address list from a lawyer. Sometimes even prosecutors don’t want to do that, but copyright owners complain to the courts, and the courts issue an order to seize machines."
  3. Yeah, something looks weird about that diagram... That almost looks like a software descriptor, and not a hardware one. (for indirect processing, like in a VM or other emulator of some sort)

  4. This is a straight-up copy of someone else's collected info that I found on another forum. I am placing it here to help prevent the loss of this info to time, and the ravages of internet censorship, or whatever else comes up.

     

    NONE OF THIS COMES FROM ME!!! It comes from here: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=81743.0

     

    Definitive Omron Switch Guide for Mice

     

    Background:

    Omron switches are the common by far used in mice, however the naming scheme and rumors abound about what each does and is. Here I'll try and document as much as I can and dispel some of the mysteries. This took hours to compile, reading websites, pdf's and more, it contains all you should need to know.

     

    Note:

    Omron uses two naming methods. While I have not confirmed it, I suspect the numbers are different simply because one number is meant for a machine to install while the others are meant for individual sale/retail. The machine ones probably come assembled in trays or strips so the machine can feed them in quickly. This is backed up by the Asus ROG Spatha mouse which uses a machine numbers on the switches inside the mouse, but retail naming on the two switches included (this mouse allows the user to change them).

     

    This guide covers both, but right or wrong about naming reasons, this is how they will be referred to in order to distinguish them.

     

    D2F Switches:

    The switches by Omron are all designated D2F, from there it gets a bit more complex. We'll discuss retail switches first, as once you understand them, you can more easily understand the machine switches.

     

    D2F vs D2FC indicates origin and more. (Important!)

     

    D2F = Japanese (always has Japan molded into top along with Omron label)

    D2FC = China (may have China painted on side or top, or just a “C” in the model #)

     

    Chinese models are mass produced and are considered to be a bit sloppy in tolerances, so one may have an actuation point a bit higher than another. Tolerances on these are pretty small so you wouldn't notice, but just know that they are more sloppy than the Japanese models.

     

    Japanese models have much nicer internals, better tolerances, better metals,a stronger frame and are better sealed from dirt and moisture. They are also slightly taller and have a shorter actuation distance, it's for this reason they are not always interchangeable with Chinese models.

     

    Which is better?

    No question, the Japanese switch is better made, but unless you use it in a harsh environment, or plan on your mouse lasting 10 years or more it may not be worth the added expense or hassle to install them.

     

    Warning: If your mouse has Chinese models, the Japanese models may not fit (unless there is a teeny bit of slop between button and switch itself, which is common). Most Logitech can probably handle it, but if not you can always file actuator. Just remember if you don't like it and try to go back to the Japanese version things will be very sloppy.

     

    D2F vs D2F -01 (can be with or without the dash)

    The next batch of numbers or lack of them is usually an 01, this indicates the spring material.

     

    D2FC Indicates a “silver alloy spring”

    D2FC -01 Indicates a “gold alloy spring”

    I put them in quotes because I suspect it means they are plated spring steel, not an actual alloy of the two materials as implied by Omron.

     

    Which is better?

    Gold is better at fighting corrosion, however it doesn't conduct as well and needs a bit more power to start conduction. In our situation, it doesn't matter much and given time and corrosion (tarnish), the gold will maintain it's level of resistance better. So unless you need the added conductivity for higher amps, gold is the better choice here as evidenced by the act that better mice almost universally use the 01.

     

    Spring rates (-F)

     

    The next important indicator you want to know is the -F

    D2FC =150g actuating force

    D2FC -F = 75g actuation force

     

    Which is better?

    Now before you rush out and look for a -F, there are considerations here and it's really not that simple.

    -F will obviously be easier to push and likely will last longer (irrelevant, you'll see). A non -F will have a much more solid click to it and a faster return. This is important if you play FPS and need to rapid fire. Most people tend to prefer the non -f, especially in gaming mice, but if you don't game the -f may be your favorite and I can see some of you already drooling, but...

     

    Warning: I told you this wasn't that simple…

    Switches have a max force rating which happens to be based on the switch and is typically 10x the actuation force. So if you tend to abuse your mice, the non -f can actually last much longer. Just another reason for gamers to consider the non -F. As you start pounding the button for rapid fire, you can easily exceed the -F's force limits which is only a little over a pound. This becomes more relevant in the next section.

     

    Lifespan Will be labeled as D2F -01 (10M)

     

    Remember I said lifespan on the -F was irrelevant, now you learn why.

    There is a rumor that Japanese switches start with a lower lifespan and that the -F has a longer lifespan. This doesn't seem to really hold much water when you consider that Omron themselves labels them for you. Sometimes.

     

    Warning: Keep in mind that these numbers are without any load, and they really do mean ANY load. If the mouse button rests on the switch button or your finger causes it to, then the lifespan will be shortened. Anything touching that button shortens the lifespan. Your mouse may have some slop to prevent this when your fingers are off the mouse, but as soon as you put them on it, the lifespan is probably starting to drop as the weight of your fingers remove that slop. Personally, 10M last longer than 20M for me, see my note here.

     

    Omron has multiple ratings:

    (1M) = 1million presses

    (3m) = 3million presses

    (5m) = 5million presses

    (10M) = 10million presses

    (20M) = 20million presses

     

    Unfortunately, the only surefire way to know for certain is with the part number as shown above as they didn't always mark them. However they often coincided with the button color or a painted dot on top.

     

    Some of the lower numbers the details are sketchy, but we don't really care about them anyhow.

    Black – no dot – (1M) = 1million presses (not verified)

    Red or Yellow button or dot (3m) = 3million (not verified)

    Red or Yellow button or dot (5m) = 5million (not verified)

    Gray button and/or dot - (10M) = 10million

    White button and/or dot - (20M) = 20million

     

    The colors are also referred to as tops, so when someone says a “white top” Omron, they mean it's a switch rated for 20mil. Presses.

     

    Caution: I don't recommend relying on the button color. MS has custom switches made for them (labeled MS) which can be different and I have seen white and gray botton Omrons with no (XXM) stamped on them. These are usually older models, but it's something to keep in mind. Dots and labeling is the only surefire way to know and a while lower numbers may not say it, you can bet a 20M is going to let you know it's a 20M.

     

    I'll put a chart at the bottom showing what is using what that I know of and if others post I will try and add them.

     

    Other random numbers and letters in the switch part number Example D2F L3 -T

     

    Frankly, you do not want any of these on your switch, as they pertain to the soldering terminals and different ways to actuate the button, almost none of which are useful to use. Note: Levers can be removed, so if you want a specific switch in a hurry and can only find it with a lever, you can always remove it from the switch and use it without problems, just be careful removing it.

     

    L = Hinge lever

    L2 = Roller lever

    L3 = simulated roller

    L30 = larger simulated roller

    -T = self clinching terminals (this can still work in a mouse)

    -A = right angled terminals

    -A1 = left angled terminals

    -D3 = big solder terminals

    -D = compact terminals

     

    Machine switch Numbers

     

    D2F-F-7N is Comparable to D2F-01F (Japanese) (Confirmed this is a 75g switch!)

    D2FC-F-7N is Comparable to D2FC-01F (Chinese)

     

    D2F-3-7 is reportedly comparable to D2F-01F (but I suspect it's closer to D2F-01 due to lack of the N) (Japanese)

    D2FC-3-7 is probably comparable to D2FC-01F (but I suspect it's closer to D2F-01 due to lack of the N) (Chinese)

     

    Note: I do not know if the D2FC-3-7 exists, but I believe it might since the 7N has a Japanese and Chinese counterpart. A quick Google search turned up nothing.

     

    Other Switch Brands

     

    Yes, there are others that can be used. Lots in fact. Most agree that the Omrons are the best and by far the most common in quality mice, which begs the question, if they are the norm, why do people and manufacturers make such a big deal over Omrons. “Look, I have the same as everyone else!”

     

    Various brands:

    Kinzu, Kana, Himake, Panasonic, Huanos (loud according to TP4Tissue), Zippy, Qiaoh and TTF

     

    Interesting ones:

    TTF is considered quietest

    Zippy uses a coil spring so may be more durable

     

    Popular Mice and what switches they use

     

    Almost all use a D2FC-F-7N the difference is the lifespan.

     

    Asus

    Rog Gladius = 20M (user replaceable)

    ROG Spatha = 20M (user replaceable)

     

    CoolerMaster

    Storm = 10M

     

    Logitech - Typically uses Omron 10Ms in most of their mice, however some gaming have used 20 lately.

    G302 = 20M

    G303 = 20M

    G500 = ? (Note: double deck pcb makes it harder to replace switches)

    G500S = 20M (Note: double deck pcb makes it harder to replace switches)

    G502 = unlabeled

    G600 = 20M

    G700 =10M (Note: double deck pcb makes it harder to replace switches)

    G700S = 20M (Note: double deck pcb makes it harder to replace switches)

    G9 = 10M

    G9X = 10M

    G900 = 20M (possibly 10)

    M705 Marathon = Himake switches

    Master = 10M

    MX Revolution = 10M

    MX Performance = 10M

     

    Razer

    Deathadder 2013 = 10M

     

    Steelseries

    Sensei = 20M

    Not all Steelseries use Omrons!

     

    Sources

     

     

  5. Bit off topic, but does anyone know why Segment Descriptor BASE field is split into three parts. Cleaner HEX?

    Which bit depth are you talking about? Seg Descriptors have 8-32 bit sizes.

  6. Considering all the talk about getting stranded on a desert island... Anyone up for it? I am. I'm ready to go get lost at a moment's notice with all of you to be there to watch me walk into the densest, snake infested, spider crawling interior forest, all so I can build my own shelter my way after everyone else rejects my plans. :ugeek:

  7. While there is some appeal to using that interpretation, all of the "AI war" scenarios are stuck with a major problem... That is that the AI either has human-like emotional capacity combined with a glitch or some form of abuse, or that it comes to the illogical conclusion that it must eradicate our species for some reason.

     

    As I am unwilling to go into further detail at this time, (headaches really take the fun out of debate thinking) I'll leave others to continue the discussion.

  8. Oh yeah…no.

     

    I was too all Mr. Open-Source and standards and all this BS. Than HTML5 actually came and hell, praised be flash. Never thought i'd say that, but it's not half as crap as the hell5…

     

    Sometimes reality just gives you a lesson. Try.

    You sound like someone using a browser that's way out of date, or someone who hasn't used Flash.

  9. Retook the test and got: INFP-A

     

    Introverted: 93%

    Intuitive: 79%

    Feeling: 52%

    Prospecting: 78%

    Assertive: 81%

     

    Not much change there from my last test... Only 6% difference causing a switch from INTP-A to INFP-A.

    _________________________________________________________________________________________

     

    Retook one of the other tests and got this:

     

    Te (Extroverted Thinking) (65%)

    your valuation of / adherence to logic of external systems / hierarchies / methods

     

    Ti (Introverted Thinking) (90%)

    your valuation of / adherence to your own internally devised logic/rational

     

    Ne (Extroverted Intuition) (85%)

    your valuation of / tendency towards free association and creating with external stimuli

     

    Ni (Introverted Intuition) (80%)

    your valuation of / tendency towards internal/original free association and creativity

     

    Se (Extroverted Sensing) (100%)

    your valuation of / tendency to fully experience the world unfiltered, in the moment

     

    Si (Introverted Sensing) (95%)

    your valuation of / focus on internal sensations and reliving past moments

     

    Fe (Extroverted Feeling) (60%)

    your valuation of / adherence to external morals, ethics, traditions, customs, groups

     

    Fi (Introverted Feeling) (90%)

    your valuation of / adherence to the sanctity of your own feelings / ideals / sentiment

     

    //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

    based on your results your type is likely - unclear

  10. If Seasonic distributed their PSUs here in Brazil I'd buy one in a heartbeat

    FYI, Seasonic is riding on their old reputation... They actually average the same fail rate now as the other brands. (and have for the past 10 years)

     

    Some of the best brands right now are Rosewill, LEPA, Antec, Raidmax, EVGA, and Seasonic. If you see them on the shelf, they are most likely to survive for longer. Make sure to pad your wattage requirements though. (if you pad by 100-150w, it averages double the lifespan of a PSU that just meets your wattage requirements; if you pad by 200w, it averages triple the lifespan)

  11. Here's one that might tickle Ross's fancy... Darkwood.

     

    http://www.darkwoodgame.com

     

    Darkwood is a game about survival, exploration and fear, set in mysterious woods somewhere in the territory of the Soviet Bloc. It is a top-down, free-roam, surreal horror experience with a randomized world, taking cues from classic games, where oftentimes you had to figure things out for yourself. By blending RPG, roguelike and adventure elements together with a challenging difficulty, Darkwood aims to please players craving for a deep and rewarding experience.

     

    This game isn't very polished, but is still quite fun. The developers even put up a torrent for the latest version of the game on TPB, just so people who can't afford to pay the $15 purchase price can give the game a go for free.

  12. I like the fully customizable vehicle part... Wish more games had it. Oldest game I've played with that sort of customization was MissionForce: CyberStorm. (a part of the Earthsiege and Tribes universe)

     

    Really, a lot of the really cool stuff from older games was left out of newer ones, and some of the worst stuff was kept. (like small queue limits, or selection restrictions) What I want is fully customizable units/buildings/tech, RTS gameplay, tons of options, and fewer "e-sports" simplifications. IMO the only reason this type of customization has failed, is because they only ever go 1/10th of the way, never all the way.

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