BTGBullseye
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Posts posted by BTGBullseye
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4x4 is faster only if the motherboard is specifically designed to run a quad-channel RAM set, otherwise a 2x8 set will perform identically to a 4x4, and the 2x8 is less expensive right now.
That first link you gave is $8 more expensive than the link to the Patriot RAM that I gave... $16 + tax difference in final purchase price.
The second link is $13 more expensive than the Team brand RAM here... $26 + tax difference in price.
It is a very low likelihood that you will notice the difference between 13 and 15, unless you are transcoding a very long video. The same could be said about 2 or 4 sticks of RAM difference, provided your motherboard has a RAM controller that does quad-channel properly. That said, here is what I recommend for making the most bang for your buck for 16GB of RAM...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226745
Mushkin Enhanced Blackline @2400MHz. If side-by-side, you would notice a difference between 2400 and 2133 RAM, it will reduce the time it takes to do stuff with large files, (like videos) and even if your motherboard can't handle the 2400MHz natively, the RAM can handle the underclocking to 2133 just fine. (all RAM is fine with being underclocked)
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The HyperX Savage line is brand new. (no time to determine their reliability, the FURY line was not that good) That said, they look nice, and they do have true 13-13-13 timing sticks. Unfortunately, you're looking at a $20-$40 premium to get them over other brands.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820225068
Patriot Viper Elite 8GB 2133MHz, 14-14-14-32 timing. Grab 2 and you should be set. ($90, make sure to read the motherboard manual to put them in the right slots for only using 2 sticks)
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This Be Quiet brand coolers look to be quite nice... (and they will be much quieter than the Cooler Masters) I wouldn't go for the T2, as it only has a dual heat pipe system, and generally you need a triple to have efficient cooling on modern CPUs.
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Should fit and work just fine... Though I'd personally recommend putting the case fan to blow out the back, in addition to having the CPU cooler blow towards the back. (it'll reduce the stress on both fans, and likely reduce the internal case temps in addition to the CPU temps)
Also, give it a try with it being a pusher fan first, just in case it doesn't actually interfere with the RAM. (most CPU fans are designed for that, and will work better that way)
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Sounds interesting... Bear in mind though that the motherboard usually has a specific slot for GPU if you only have a single GPU, and it will have better performance in that slot than it will in another slot. If the motherboard specifies a slot for the GPU, use that one if you can.
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Masking tape works great for holding those things in place while you are installing other parts... Never underestimate tape. lol
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Fairly easy to disable the telemetry... http://www.ghacks.net/2016/11/07/nvidia-telemetry-tracking/ If you use CCleaner, it's really easy to disable these in its Tools>Startup>Scheduled Tasks section.
First off, the 6GB 1060 actually has a higher benchmark rating than the 3GB version. (about what you'd expect from slightly faster RAM, about a 2% difference) The 3GB is ~36.6% higher benchmarked performance over the Ti. (the Ti only has ~6.5% better performance than the 1050) http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/compare.php?cmp%5B%5D=3596&cmp%5B%5D=3595&cmp%5B%5D=3566
There are really only a couple reasons to go for more than 3GB RAM on a consumer GPU at this time:
1. You are running with very high-resolution textures on a 4k screen.
2. You're doing VR gaming with very high-resolution textures.
3. Your scientific program requires higher GPU RAM for optimal processing. (this probably doesn't apply to 99.999% of the people that purchase this card)
As it is, I would suggest leaving that extra PCI-e slot empty. As I said before, those 16 lanes have to be shared between all the slots, (and the USB 3 ports) so putting ANYTHING at all in the second slot is going to limit the GPU. 8x on that slot won't slow the card noticeably, (it'll drop 0~3% on most benchmarks) but if for some reason the slot switches down to 4x, (like if you have a USB 3 external drive as well as a second something in the other slot) you're looking at getting between 20~80% performance reductions. The only device I would even consider putting in a PCI-e slot on a modern system, apart from a really super-expensive SSD or GPU, is a sound card. (and unless you're shelling out $120+ for a nice Xonar to use with your studio-grade Sennheisers, you're probly not going to notice a difference between the PCI-e card and the integrated sound)
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SLI/Crossfire has always had its own slew of problems, not limited to some games/programs not even being capable of utilizing more than 1 GPU. (that effectively makes the SLI/Crossfire setup a complete waste of time and money)
The 1050 should be able to handle recording on most older games at maximum settings and 1080p resolutions. If you're wanting to do the same for newer games, I'd say to go for a 1060 or better.
The 1050 Ti is in the middle between the 1050 and the 1060 for performance, it has about 5% better performance in benchmarks than the 1050, and the 1060 is about 33% better in addition to having better benchmarks than the best consumer-grade AMD cards. Also, there is usually a discount deal on Newegg for the 1060 that puts it down around $185. (it just tends to rotate between what vendor is doing the deal, but I have yet to see a single day in the past 2 months without a $185 or lower 1060 on Newegg)
The main difference between the 1050 and the Ti is the number of Cuda cores. The 1050 has 640, and the Ti has 768. For reference, the 1060 has 1152 cores. Also, overclocking isn't what it used to be. All modern GPUs have a built-in overclocking ability, and they OC on the fly without any user input. (in reality they are all underclocked, and then switch to their full clock speed when they move into 'overclocking' mode)
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But I want to be able to use Vulkan drivers which Nvidia doesn't support.
Nvidia has had native Vulkan support since the 600 series... (it's built into the regular Nvidia drivers) Whoever told you they didn't either doesn't know, or is lying.
The 1050 or the 1060 would likely serve you well for the foreseeable future.
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Looks like a very decent board... I'd say get it.
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If you look at this, those two PCI-e slots on that board have to share 8 lanes. That means you can have a single GPU running at 8x, (depending on the GPU, that may or may not drop its performance) 2 at 4x, (4x will DEFINITELY drop the performance of all but the low-end GPUs) or 1 at 4x and something else using the other PCI-e 4x slot. If you want something that is going to have the ability to go to full PCI-e 16x, or run a GPU and something else, then you need to go for one of the *170 or C23* series chipsets.
I personally would recommend grabbing from this list: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&IsNodeId=1&N=100007627%20600567584%204814%20600567581%20601106742%20601107015%20601184500%20601189929%20600009017%20600456442%20600530942%20600533615%20601184735
Matter of fact, the first result on the list is almost the same board, just with the better chipset, and it's only $8 more expensive. I'd recommend going just a bit further and grab the Z170 chipset version though; futureproofing. (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157637)
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I'm a KISS C# programmer that works with Unity 3D. I'm not really cut out for making apps so I make games. With apps I have the complete opposite problem of the "ideas guy". I can program but I haven't been able to come up with any ideas for apps. With games all I have to do is make them fun whereas with apps they have to be useful and I don't know what's useful.
Even the "games" I've made I would hesitate to call them that in the traditional sense of the word. They're more akin to experiments with interactive elements that may or may not be fun to play. They don't have well developed core gameplay loops or win states. That's how you can tell I'm a programmer and not a designer. Though I am working on it and hopefully I will make an actual game one day.
If you're interested, I have a non-paying project for a combination of win32 and Android mobile app with a very specific intention, and I don't currently know either programming language, so I could use some help. (if you're interested, contact me through Steam: BTGbullseye)
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Just on the off chance that someone into programming is interested in what can be done with as little as 100 lines of code, or possibly looking for inspiration, this is for you.
This is a program my father wrote in 1983 for a computer programming class. It plays bingo, and then lists how many balls were played before a bingo, as well as what the card numbers were for the winning card. It can play as many as 150 cards at a time quite easily. The inventiveness of this program (something his professor has never seen anyone come close to producing before or since) is that it plays the cards in a 3D stack instead of a 2D plane like most people would think to do. By doing this, he was able to reduce the size of the program down from over 1500 lines of code, to exactly 100 lines. If more programmers did this reduction of the program (reducing redundant code) with modern programs, we wouldn't need an 8-core i7 processor with top-of-the-line GPU to do VR or AR gaming at high framerates, or terrabyte drives to hold more than a half dozen games.
$JOB WATFIV 1 INTEGER BINGO (4,5,5), CARD, COL, ROW 2 INTEGER ARRAY (10), RANDOM, LAST, SEED /25/ 3 INTEGER CAGE (50), PICK, STEPS (4), /0,0,0,0/ 4 LOGICAL FOUND, DONE 5 DO 13 CARD=1,4 6 DO 12 ROW=1,5 7 DO 10 COL=1,10 8 ARRAY(COL)=COL+((ROW-1)*10) 9 10 CONTINUE 10 LAST=10 11 DO 11 COL=1,5 12 RANDOM=INT(URAND(SEED)*LAST)+1 13 BINGO(CARD,COL,ROW)=ARRAY(RANDOM) 14 ARRAY(RANDOM)=ARRAY(LAST) 15 LAST=LAST-1 16 11 CONTINUE 17 12 CONTINUE 18 BINGO(CARD,3,3)=0 19 13 CONTINUE 20 PRINT 91 21 EXECUTE LISTIT 22 80 DO 40 CARD=1,4 23 DONE=.FALSE. 24 DO 30 PICK=1,50 25 CAGE(PICK)=PICK 26 30 CONTINUE 27 LAST=50 28 WHILE (.NOT.DONE) 29 PICK=INT(URAND(SEED)*LAST)+1 30 EXECUTE MATCH 31 81 CAGE(PICK)=CAGE(LAST) 32 LAST=LAST-1 33 IF (LAST.LT.47) THEN 34 EXECUTE CHECK 35 83 END IF 36 84 FOUND=.FALSE. 37 END WHILE 38 PRINT 90 39 STEPS(CARD)=50-LAST 40 40 CONTINUE 41 EXECUTE LISTIT 42 PRINT 95,(STEPS(L),L=1,4) 43 PRINT 91 44 90 FORMAT('0') 45 91 FORMAT('1') 46 92 FORMAT(4(' B I N G O ')) 47 93 FORMAT(4(' --------------------------')) 48 94 FORMAT(4(6X,'|',1X,I2,1X,'|',1X,I2,1X,'|'1X,I2,1X,'|',1X,I2,1X,'|',1X,I2,1X,'|')) 49 95 FORMAT(4(' BINGO IN ',I2,' STEPS ')) 50 96 STOP 51 REMOTE BLOCK MATCH 52 DO 55 COL=1,5 53 DO 50 ROW=1,5 54 IF (CAGE(PICK).EQ.BINGO(CARD,COL,ROW)) THEN 55 BINGO(CARD,COL,ROW)=0 56 END IF 57 50 CONTINUE 58 55 CONTINUE 59 END BLOCK 60 REMOTE BLOCK CHECK 61 DO 101 ROW=1,5 62 DONE=.TRUE. 63 DO 100 COL=1,5 64 IF (BINGO(CARD,COL,ROW).NE.0) THEN 65 DONE=.FALSE. 66 END IF 67 100 CONTINUE 68 IF (DONE) THEN 69 QUIT3 70 END IF 71 101 CONTINUE 72 DO 111 COL=1,5 73 DONE=.TRUE. 74 DO 110 ROW=1,5 75 IF (BINGO(CARD,COL,ROW).NE.0) THEN 76 DONE=.FALSE. 77 END IF 78 110 CONTINUE 79 IF (DONE) THEN 80 QUIT3 81 END IF 82 111 CONTINUE 83 IF (BINGO(CARD,1,1).EQ.0.AND.BINGO(CARD,2,2).EQ.0.AND.BINGO(CARD,4,4).EQ.0.AND.BINGO(CARD,5,5).EQ.0) THEN 84 DONE=.TRUE. 85 END IF 86 IF (BINGO(CARD,5,1).EQ.0.AND.BINGO(CARD,4,2).EQ.0.AND.BINGO(CARD,2,4).EQ.0.AND.BINGO(CARD,1,5).EQ.0) THEN 87 DONE=.TRUE. 88 END IF 89 END BLOCK 90 REMOTE BLOCK LIST 91 PRINT 92 92 PRINT 90 93 PRINT 93 94 DO 20 COL=1,5 95 PRINT 94,((BINGO(CARD,COL,ROW),ROW=1,5),CARD=1,4) 96 PRINT 93 97 20 CONTINUE 98 PRINT 90 99 END BLOCK 100 END C$END C$ENTRYHe did a test run of it for the class he was doing, and it took a total of 0.95 seconds to complete a run and play 4 cards to a bingo. When he first submitted it for grading, it was graded by a TA, and he got a 0. When he showed it to the professor and asked why it was failed, the professor took a closer look, and it resulted in a 100, a perfect A.
Here is a scan of the original printout from the class. (it excludes the last page, which is a duplicate of the first page, except the timestamps say "6.56.59")
Click to Enlarge
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https://hetzel.net/2014-01-29/youtube-videos-will-process-faster-encode-streamable-file-format/
You're using old info if you think YouTube doesn't work with MKV.
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Might want to try VBR instead of CBR if you can... It usually drops file sizes significantly.
[EDIT] Looks like it also has an MKV format option, which is an objectively better container format than MP4. Too bad it can't do HEVC encoding. (or doesn't seem to want to show the option to on my system)
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Despite being on the opposite side of the political spectrum, I like his style. Too bad he's not the typical, or we'd have better political conversations.
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Also, if you haven't seen it, this is a good read about the mainstream media, and why they were so significantly wrong about the outcome.
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28,584,625 for all Republican candidates. http://www.realclearpolitics.com/epolls/2016/president/republican_vote_count.html
27,834,835 for all Democrat candidates. http://www.realclearpolitics.com/epolls/2016/president/democratic_vote_count.html
Make sense to me that Trump should be in instead of Clinton.
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Trump is the new president elect.
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Questions for next time: Have you looked at HEVC for reducing the file size of your backup copies of your videos? Would you consider using it to provide the non-YouTube downloadable videos here on the site?
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13-13-13-35 is 2 cycles (at 2400MHz, about 0.416ms) per operation faster than the 15-15-15-35. http://www.masterslair.com/memory-ram-timings-latency-cas-ras-tcl-trcd-trp-tras
Depending on your motherboard, the RAM may default to the fastest it's rated for, or the fastest the motherboard is rated for. If the motherboard has overclocking capability, manually setting it to the default RAM timings and voltage is ideal regardless of everything else.
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If you're wanting a relationship, then you need to work to tear down the walls. If you don't really want a relationship, then you don't have to have one, though it tends to make people crotchety when they get old, like one of my grand uncles. I think he had 10 people at his funeral, (not one tear shed among them) and his own sister who was the closest person to him told family members that she "didn't want to bother them" with the fact that he died. (if you don't mind that, then that's your prerogative, and I won't judge)
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There aren't any dual mounting brackets that I know of.
The don't "roast" per se, but they do run a little hotter than average since the racks are a mostly enclosed area. Even if it wasn't, the 5.25" bays aren't designed to be cooled by the system fans, as they are designed to be an enclosed area. (like a DVD burner, or empty space)
The best option at this time for mounting 2 drives in a 5.25" hole is that Rosewill with the cooling fan. If you aren't going to use the drives that much, and are going to use the USB ports, then the Syba is better. Running cooler is better, running less is better, when it comes to HDD/SSD.
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Hell is spending an eternity in a room with a duplicate of yourself.
It's inevitable that you'll start arguing, then hating each other if you're too similar mentally. There needs to be a moderation between your likes, and hers. Look for someone who likes the 3 or 4 things you like the most, but has other likes that just don't interest you that much. Trying to match the things you DISLIKE is a lot more important, as you'll never go wrong if you both dislike the same things.
Post your setup!
in Computer Hardware
Posted
The problem with that is that modern versions of Windows, despite doing just fine starting with lower RAM, ends up with a significant performance impact after a few months post-upgrading the RAM. (I've seen as much as a 10% RAM performance drop) It probably isn't an intentional thing, (who really knows for sure?) but Microsoft has deleted several reports of this issue from their report sections, and it hasn't been fixed since W7 SP1 came out. (that was the first time I noticed it)
With multi-channel sets, you definitely want to get the full set all at the same time, as the set sticks are specifically chosen to be of identical performance. Single sticks can vary significantly, and even conflict with each other in rare circumstances. (the performance impact can vary from 0%-100% performance drop, and in extremely rare circumstances one stick can actually permanently kill other sticks attached to the system)
If you don't mind the risks, (they are relatively small, though I'm one of the fortunate ones that manages to hit all of them at some point) then by all means, do what you are going to do. I'm providing as much helpful info as possible, not trying to push you to do something you don't want to.